Ingredients & Product Insights
Active Ingredients
- Titanium Dioxide (4.32%)
- Zinc Oxide (18.28%)
Inactive Ingredients
Water (Aqua), C15-19 Alkane, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Saccharide Isomerate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Behenate, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Pentylene Glycol, Scenedesmus Rubescens Extract, Gellan Gum, Polygonum Aviculare Extract
Ingredients below 0.01% or less by weight: Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Ingredient Explanations
Zinc Oxide
Overview
Zinc Oxide stands out as a top-tier sunscreen agent, classified as GRASE (Generally Regarded as Safe and Effective). It is a physical sunscreen, similar to Titanium Dioxide (TiO2), but offers superior protection. Zinc Oxide provides broad-spectrum protection against UVB, UVA II, and UVA I rays, making it one of the best options for sun protection available today (Pinnell et al., 2000). It is highly stable, non-irritating, and suitable for sensitive skin, serving as both a skin protectant and anti-irritant.
The Details
Dottir Skin's sunscreen utilizes non-nano ultrafine Zinc Oxide, which is designed to sit on the skin's surface without penetrating it. Studies confirm that these particles remain on the skin's surface or in the uppermost layer. This ensures that the sunscreen is safe, does not cause cellular toxicity, and maintains its efficacy without being absorbed into the skin (Holmes et al., 2018). The Zinc Oxide used in our formula also boasts anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, and skin-healing properties, making it a comprehensive choice for effective and gentle UV protection.
References
Pinnell, Sheldon R., et al. "Microfine zinc oxide is a superior sunscreen ingredient to microfine titanium dioxide." Dermatologic surgery 26.4 (2000): 309-314.
Holmes, A., et al. "Support for the Safe Use of Zinc Oxide Nanoparticle Sunscreens: Lack of Skin Penetration or Cellular Toxicity after Repeated Application in Volunteers." Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2018).
Titanium Dioxide
Overview
Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) is a member of the elite group of physical sunscreens, also known as inorganic sunscreens – in chemistry, inorganic refers to compounds that do not contain carbon atoms. This effective UV filter is widely recognized and offers high SPF protection along with excellent skin tolerance. It provides broad-spectrum protection against UVB and UVA II rays (290-350 nm) and some protection against UVA I rays (350-400 nm).
The Science
Unlike the traditional belief that physical sunscreens solely reflect UV light, recent studies indicate that Titanium Dioxide primarily works by absorbing UV light, similar to chemical filters, while only reflecting a small portion of it. This dual action ensures effective protection against harmful UV radiation (Pinnell et al., 2000).
Titanium Dioxide is highly stable, non-irritating, and suitable for sensitive skin, making it a preferred choice for many formulations. However, regular-sized Titanium Dioxide particles can leave a noticeable white tint on the skin, which has led to the use of micro- and nano-sized particles to improve cosmetic elegance. These smaller particles significantly enhance spreadability and reduce the whitening effect.
Titanium Dioxide is often micronized and coated for use in cosmetic products. Micronizing this ingredient helps make it easier to apply on the skin, enhancing its cosmetic appeal. Additionally, research shows that smaller particle sizes of Titanium Dioxide improve sun protection efficacy compared to non-micronized forms (Lin & Lin, 2011). Micronized Titanium Dioxide remains on the skin's surface and does not penetrate into the body. Even when nanoparticles are used, the coating on the particles' surface ensures that they stay within the uppermost layers of the skin, preventing deeper absorption. Studies confirm that nanoparticles do not penetrate beyond the surface of the skin or the uppermost dead skin layer, even in sunburned or damaged skin, ensuring their safety (Monteiro-Riviere et al., 2011; Newman et al., 2009).
The non-nano ultrafine variant used in Dóttir Skin's sunscreen, fully compliant with the latest SCCS/1516/13 requirements and regulation 1223/2009/EC, provides superior UV protection without compromising safety or cosmetic appeal. This Titanium Dioxide is coated with silica and dimethicone, enhancing its stability and performance, while ensuring it remains on the skin's surface.
References
Pinnell, Sheldon R., et al. "Microfine zinc oxide is a superior sunscreen ingredient to microfine titanium dioxide." Dermatologic surgery 26.4 (2000): 309-314.
Newman, Marissa D., Mira Stotland, and Jeffrey I. Ellis. "The safety of nanosized particles in titanium dioxide–and zinc oxide–based sunscreens." Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 61.4 (2009): 685-692.
Monteiro-Riviere, N. A., et al. "Safety evaluation of sunscreen formulations containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in UVB sunburned skin: an in vitro and in vivo study." Toxicological Sciences (2011): kfr148.
Lin, C.-C., & Lin, W.-J. (2011). "Sun protection factor analysis of sunscreens containing titanium dioxide nanoparticles." Journal of Food and Drug Analysis, 19(1), 1-8. DOI: 10.38212/2224-6614.2181.
Niacinamide
Overview
- Famous for visibly reducing enlarged pores
- Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
- Reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
- Lightens hyperpigmentation
- Reduces redness
- Improves overall skin texture
The Science
Antioxidant Effects
Niacinamide increases the levels of reduced forms of NAD(P), which have potent antioxidant properties. These antioxidants play a crucial role in neutralizing free radicals and protecting the skin from oxidative stress and damage (Hakozaki et al., 2010).
Improved Epidermal Barrier Function
Niacinamide enhances the skin's barrier function by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increasing the skin's resistance to potentially harmful agents. It achieves this by upregulating serine palmitoyltransferase, the rate-limiting enzyme in ceramide synthesis, and promoting keratinocyte differentiation, which increases epidermal turnover (Draelos, 2010).
Decreased Yellowing of Skin
Through its antioxidant capabilities, niacinamide inhibits oxidative processes such as protein oxidation, glycation, and the Maillard reaction, which produce yellowish-brown compounds known as Amadori products. These compounds accumulate in the skin matrix and contribute to skin yellowing as we age (Hakozaki et al., 2010).
Reduction of Erythema and Blotchiness
By improving the skin's barrier function, niacinamide reduces irritation and redness when the skin encounters environmental insults. This leads to a decrease in erythema and blotchiness (Draelos, 2010).
Reduction of Fine Lines and Wrinkles
Niacinamide helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles by decreasing glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and increasing the production of dermal collagen and other skin proteins such as keratin, filaggrin, and involucrin (Draelos, 2010).
Hyperpigmentation Reduction
Niacinamide reduces the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to surrounding keratinocytes. Studies have shown that a 5% niacinamide moisturizer can inhibit melanosome transfer by 35-68%, resulting in significant lightening of hyperpigmentation (Draelos, 2010).
Clinical Evidence
- Smoother Skin Surface: Analysis using a multiple angle reflectance spectrophotometer demonstrated that a 2.5% niacinamide cream resulted in a smoother skin surface compared to a vehicle alone (p<0.05) (Draelos, 2010).
- Reduction in Skin Roughness: A 3.5% niacinamide cream showed a 14.8% reduction in skin roughness over four weeks compared to a placebo (p=0.05) (Draelos, 2010).
- Significant Improvement in Skin Conditions: In a randomized, double-blind, split-face, placebo-controlled clinical trial, 50 white females applied 5% niacinamide and a vehicle twice daily for 12 weeks. Results showed significant improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, redness, yellowing, and skin elasticity (p<0.05) (Hakozaki et al., 2010).
- Hyperpigmentation Reduction: A study on Japanese women using 5% niacinamide vs. a vehicle demonstrated significant lightening of hyperpigmentation after 8 weeks (p<0.05) (Draelos, 2010).
References
Draelos, Z. D. (2010). The multifunctional role of niacinamide in improving skin appearance. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 3(5), 22-27.
Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J., Chhoa, M., Matsubara, A., Miyamoto, K., ... & Bissett, D. L. (2010). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20-31.
Tocopheryl Acetate
Overview
Tocopheryl acetate (GRASE), commonly known as tocopherol acetate, is a stabilized form of vitamin E that is frequently used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. This compound helps protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental stressors, making it a valuable ingredient in anti-aging and protective skincare formulations.
The Science
Benefits for Sunburn and UV Protection
Studies have shown that tocopheryl acetate significantly reduces the severity of sunburn-related symptoms, such as redness, swelling, and skin sensitivity caused by UVB radiation. It works by enhancing the skin’s natural defense mechanisms and mitigating the damaging effects of UV exposure (Thiele & Ekanayake-Mudiyanselage, 2007).
Safety and Usage
While vitamin E can absorb ultraviolet light and potentially produce free radicals under strong sunlight, tocopheryl acetate is considered safe when used in concentrations between 0.1% and 1.0%. Higher levels can be used without apparent side effects, making it a versatile ingredient in various skincare formulations (Thiele & Ekanayake-Mudiyanselage, 2007).
Hydration and Formulation Benefits
Due to its fat-soluble nature, tocopheryl acetate is most effective in oily or alcohol-based formulations. It is commonly found in serums, tonics, oils, and emulsions. Research has demonstrated that tocopheryl acetate can improve skin hydration and the water-binding capacity of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, enhancing overall skin health and appearance (Gehring, Fluhr, & Gloor, 1998).
General Safety in Cosmetics
Tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate are widely regarded as safe for use in both food and cosmetics. These ingredients are commonly found in a variety of skincare products, and adverse reactions such as allergies or irritation are rare. Clinical studies support their safety for topical use, with only minimal reports of irritant or sensitizing reactions (Fiume et al., 2018; Chung et al., 2002).
References
Thiele, J. J., & Ekanayake-Mudiyanselage, S. (2007). Vitamin E in human skin: organ-specific physiology and considerations for its use in dermatology. Molecular Aspects of Medicine, 28(5-6), 646-67. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.mam.2007.06.001
Gehring, W., Fluhr, J., & Gloor, M. (1998). Influence of vitamin E acetate on stratum corneum hydration. Arzneimittelforschung, 48, 772-775.
Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., et al. (2018). Safety Assessment of Tocopherols and Tocotrienols as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(2_suppl), 61S-94.
Chung, H. J., Young Seo, J., Kyoung Lee, M., Chul Eun, H., Heung Lee, J., Kang, S., et al. (2002). Ultraviolet Modulation of Human Macrophage Metalloelastase in Human Skin In Vivo.
Scenedesmus Rubescens Extract
Overview
Scientists have identified Scenedesmus rubescens, a type of green microalgae, for its potent skincare benefits. This unicellular organism, which thrives in freshwater lakes, has developed exceptional self-defense mechanisms, making it a valuable ingredient in skincare products. The unique characteristics of Scenedesmus rubescens include its robust cell wall and red carotenoid-rich dots that protect against environmental stressors. Scenedesmus rubescens contains a unique composition of amino acids, vitamins (notably Vitamin B3), algal saccharides, and minerals such as zinc. These components contribute to its ability to fight against UV-induced photodamage, hyperpigmentation, and cellular aging.
The Science
UV Protection and Anti-Aging
Researchers have found that extracts from Scenedesmus rubescens can help protect the skin from UV damage. The studies demonstrated that these extracts could reduce signs of aging caused by UV exposure. Treatments with the extract increased the viability of dermal fibroblasts, rescued dermal collagen content, reduced the formation of sunburned cells, and inhibited tyrosinase activity (Kose & Oncel, 2022).
Collagen Stimulation
Further tests revealed that Scenedesmus rubescens extract could significantly increase collagen III in the skin by 129% with just a 1% concentration of the extract. Collagen III, which typically decreases with age, is crucial for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness (Campiche et al., 2018). These results showed an overall improvement in collagen production in skin cells treated with the extract.
References
Campiche, R., Sandau, P., Kurth, E., Massironi, M., Imfeld, D., & Schuetz, R. (2018). Protective effects of an extract of the freshwater microalga Scenedesmus rubescens on UV-irradiated skin cells. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(2), 187–192. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12450
Kose, A., & Oncel, S. S. (2022). Design of melanogenesis regulatory peptides derived from phycocyanin of the microalgae Spirulina platensis. Peptides, 6(152). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.peptides.2022.170783
C15-19 Alkane
Function
Emollient
Benefits
Provides a smooth, non-greasy texture.
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
Function
Emollient
Benefits
Enhances the spreadability and feel of the product.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Function
Emollient
Benefits
Derived from coconut oil, it helps to replenish the skin's surface and resist moisture loss.
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Function
SPF Booster
Benefits
Stabilizes the formulation and increases the effectiveness of UV filters.
Dimethicone
Function
Emollient + coating agent
Benefits
As an emollient:
Dimethicone is one of the most common silicones used in skincare products, and for good reason! This versatile ingredient is a type of polymer that comes in various molecular weights, leading to different textures from very light, water-like fluids to thicker, more substantial liquids.
Silky Smooth Feel:
When applied to the skin, dimethicone leaves a silky, smooth finish that many people love. It gives your skin a subtle, healthy-looking gloss.
Protective Barrier:
Dimethicone acts as a protective barrier (also known as an occlusive) on the skin. This means it helps to lock in moisture and shields your skin from environmental stressors.
Line and Wrinkle Filler:
It's great for temporarily filling in fine lines and wrinkles, giving your skin a plumper, more youthful appearance.
Scar Treatment:
You'll also find dimethicone in many scar treatment products. It helps to soften scars and improve their elasticity, making them less noticeable over time.
Addressing Common Misconceptions
There's a common misconception that dimethicone is acnegenic (pore-clogging), but this isn't true. Dimethicone is non-comedogenic, which means it doesn't clog pores or cause breakouts. In fact, it's often used in formulations designed for sensitive and acne-prone skin because it provides a protective barrier without suffocating the skin.
Why It’s Loved in Skincare
Dimethicone's unique ability to enhance the texture and feel of skincare products, combined with its protective and moisturizing benefits, makes it a staple in many beauty routines. Whether you’re looking for a product that smooths your skin, protects it from harsh weather, or helps with scar healing, dimethicone is a reliable and safe choice.
As a Coating Agent
Dimethicone is used as a coating on Titanium Dioxide particles in our sunscreen. This ensures that the particles remain stable and disperse evenly in the formulation. The dimethicone coating enhances the performance of Titanium Dioxide by preventing clumping and improving spreadability on the skin. Additionally, it helps to reduce any potential irritation, ensuring that the sunscreen is gentle and comfortable for all skin types.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Function
Emollient
Benefits
Provides a non-greasy moisturizing effect.
Glyceryl Behenate
Function
Emollient
Benefits
Provides a creamy texture and moisturizes the skin.
Water (Aqua)
Function
Solvent
Benefits
Water, also known as H2O, is the most prevalent ingredient in skincare products. It often appears at the top of ingredient lists, indicating it constitutes the largest portion of the product. Its primary role is to act as a solvent for ingredients that prefer dissolving in water rather than oils.
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
Function
Emulsifier
Benefits
Helps to blend oil and water phases for a consistent texture.
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Function
Emulsifier
Benefits
Helps to stabilize the formulation.
Sorbitan Olivate
Function
Emulsifier
Benefits
Derived from olive oil, it helps to blend the oil and water phases.
Glycerin
Function
Humectant
Benefits
Attracts moisture to the skin, keeping it hydrated.
Saccharide Isomerate
Function
Humectant
Benefits
Provides long-lasting hydration.
Caprylyl Glycol
Function
Skin conditioning agent
Benefits
Helps to keep the skin hydrated and enhances the effectiveness of preservatives.
1,2-Hexanediol
Function
Humectant
Benefits
Provides moisture to the skin.
Pentylene Glycol
Function
Humectant and skin conditioning agent
Benefits
Hydrates the skin and enhances the penetration of other ingredients.
Sodium Chloride
Function
Binding agent
Benefits
Thickens the product and maintains consistency.
Disodium EDTA
Function
Chelating agent
Benefits
Helps to stabilize the formulation by binding to metal ions.
Citric Acid
Function
pH adjuster
Benefits
Helps to maintain the stability and pH balance of the formulation.
Sodium Citrate
Function
Buffering agent
Benefits
Helps to control the pH levels.
Potassium Sorbate
Function
Preservative
Benefits
Prevents the growth of mold and yeast to extend the shelf life of the product.
Sodium Benzoate
Function
Preservative
Benefits
Prevents the growth of bacteria and fungi.
Silica
Function
Absorbent
Benefits
Helps to control oil and provide a matte finish.
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Function
Surface modifier
Benefits
Improves the spreadability and adhesion of the product.
Gellan Gum
Function
Thickening agent
Benefits
Provides a smooth, gel-like texture.
Polygonum Aviculare Extract
Function
Skin conditioning agent
Benefits
Offers anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.